Kalymnos, Greece. A vacation island in the Greek archipelago, next to the island of Kos and close to Turkey, is one of the top climbing destinations in the world for sport climbing. The island has over 5,000 routes across various sectors, and new routes are still being opened.
In July, we decided to book a week-long trip to the island to see what it has to offer. My travel companion Ville had visited the island once before, so we had some prior knowledge about the practical details.
I’ve listed here some things that stood out to me about the basics. Personally, I like to travel with some idea of where I’m going and what to expect. This way, especially on a sport-focused trip, we can make the most of the time and not waste too much on figuring things out.
Travel and Luggage:
We booked our own trip as a package holiday, which turned out to be a very efficient and convenient option.
When booking the trip, we paid attention to the allowed luggage limits: 15 kg for checked luggage and 5 kg for carry-ons.
For checked luggage, it was possible to purchase an additional 5 kg or 10 kg, which we did. We brought two ropes, one 80 meters and one 60 meters. These alone added more weight than a typical vacation trip. Our bags weighed just under 20 kg each when departing from Helsinki-Vantaa. In our backpacks, we had harnesses, one pair of shoes, a belay device, and for me, cameras.
On the return journey, we emptied our backpacks into the suitcases, and each suitcase was around 21 kg, with souvenirs included. The staff at Kos Airport weighed the bags and remarked that we had already paid for excess baggage in advance.
Carry-on luggage was not weighed there.
The Journey to Kalymnos in a nutshell:
- 08:00 Helsinki-Vantaa – 12:00 Kos
- From Kos Airport, a 15-minute bus ride to Mastichari Port (12:45)
- Note: Kos has other ports, so it’s important to specify that you want to go to this one if you’re traveling independently.
- 13:35 Ferry ride (25 minutes) to Pothia
- From Pothia, a bus to the hotel, and we arrived in our room around 15:00.
Massouri Village:
A small, charming village on the island’s western coast. The village’s main street is about 750 meters long, or rather, everything essential fits along that distance: hotels, shops, restaurants, and scooter rental shops.
Shopping
Along the village, there are five specialty shops, one of which is a Patagonia brand store or similar, and four shops specializing in climbing gear and clothing.
One of these stores was a La Sportiva brand store. Climb Rock was more of a Mammut-focused shop, but they also had many other brands, such as Ocun.
The price level for climbing gear was higher than in Finland, but if something breaks, gets lost, or is forgotten, you can easily find it on the island. The island is also a great place to buy shoes, as there is a very good selection of different brands. I bought a pair of Scarpa Generators, which are not available in Finland. The price of the shoes was 157 euros (with a 10% discount), which is similar to the average price of shoes in Finland.
However, it’s not advisable to completely rely on the island for gear if you don’t already have everything you need. For example, an 80-meter basic rope cost 300 euros in one of the shops, while its price in Finland at the time of writing is 170 euros (regular price on varuste.net).
After a morning of climbing, our recovery always began at the same spot—a favorite local lunch spot. It became a daily ritual and the perfect way to recharge before the afternoon’s adventures.
Souvenirs
Kalymnos offers a range of unique and practical souvenirs that capture the essence of the island. Some popular options include:
- Climbing-themed T-shirts: Found in every store, these shirts often feature designs inspired by the island’s climbing culture.
- Local Honey: A must-buy, as Kalymnos is famous for its high-quality honey.
- Olives and Olive Oil: Authentic Greek flavors to take home.
- Sponges (Natural): The island is historically known for its sponge diving, and genuine sea sponges make for an iconic souvenir.
- Wooden Handicrafts Made from Olive Wood: Beautifully crafted but quite heavy, making them better suited for smaller items.
Food, Drinks, and Snacks
Drinking water on the island is available in two ways:
- Buying bottled water from stores (maximum 1.5 liters per bottle).
- Using the village’s drinking water dispenser in the evenings.
We kept bottles in the fridge and would fill our 3-liter CamelBak hydration reservoirs from the dispenser at night, ready for the next day.
Breakfast Options
For breakfast, there are essentially two choices if you don’t have a rushed morning:
- Wait for the first restaurants to open at 8:00 AM.
- Visit one of the small mini-markets or supermarkets along the main street.
Although none of these stores were large, they stocked everything needed for breakfast and snacks. A nearby supermarket, for instance, received fresh baked goods at 7:00 AM, which became the basis of our packed lunches. We also stocked up on protein bars, bananas, and other essentials.
Supermarket Prices
Prices in the supermarkets were comparable to those in Finland. Some items were slightly cheaper, while things like energy and protein bars were a bit more expensive. Naturally, the sellers have leverage here since travelers often prefer to minimize what they carry.
- Beer: Prices ranged between 2–3 euros for a 0.5-liter can, similar to Finland.
- Soft Drinks, Smoothies, Energy Drinks: Slightly below Finnish prices.
These stores were handy for stocking up on supplies while keeping things convenient and efficient!
** Kalymnos meatballs (appetizer)** €7
Restaurant Price Levels
A table reservation might be necessary in the evening… yes, really. On our first nights in the village, it was so crowded that it was nearly impossible to get a table for two without a reservation. In the following evenings, we either reserved a table ourselves or joined other Finnish climbers who had made a reservation. This ensured we could eat around 7 PM (sunset).
Price Estimates for Budgeting
- Breakfast at a restaurant: €5–10
- Lunch salad: ~€10
- Dinner: €10–20 (fish and steak dishes on the higher end)
- Beer: €5
- Water (still or sparkling): €2–4
At restaurants, it was common to pay at the counter, either splitting the bill by table group or paying only for your own meal. In this setup, it didn’t matter whether you paid by card or cash.
We used cash often, as it was frequently the faster way to settle the bill.
Climbing Gear
Climbing in Kalymnos is primarily sport climbing, so you’ll need at least the following: climbing shoes, a harness, a helmet, and a belay device. Additional gear may be required depending on what the rest of your group brings.
Wearing a helmet is highly recommended on the island, as rocks can come loose from the cliffs, especially in newer sectors. I personally dislodged a rock simply by stepping on it. Additionally, goats moving around the top of the cliffs can occasionally knock stones down.
The routes are longer than typical Finnish routes, generally ranging from 25 to 35 meters. They are well-bolted, which means you’ll need more quickdraws than you might in Finland.
Recommended Gear for Routes
- A suitable number of quickdraws: 15–20
- We brought a mix of short, medium, and alpine quickdraws. In hindsight, medium, long, and alpine quickdraws were the most useful. The routes often weave or have bolts set in recesses, where longer quickdraws reduce rope drag.
Given the length of the routes, rope drag also play a significant role in managing the climb efficiently.
Rope
We brought both a 60-meter and an 80-meter rope. To be clear, a 60-meter rope alone is too short for Kalymnos; it severely limits your route options.
A 70-meter rope is a reasonable compromise, but an 80-meter rope is the safest bet for accessing most routes.
The most important rule for ropes on the island is to always tie a knot at the end of your rope. This is crucial for safety, especially given the length of many routes.
Other Gear and Considerations
For multipitch climbing, you’ll need gear for building anchors, as well as for top-roping setups. Unfortunately, some climbers use the carabiners in anchors for top-roping, which causes excessive wear on the anchor hardware.
Essential Items
- Basic ATC + prusik: Always good to have for rappelling or emergency scenarios.
- Locking carabiners: Bring several; they’re indispensable for various setups.
- Cow’s Tail (Personal Anchor System): A must for securing yourself. Mine was a Dyneema daisy chain, where each loop is individually rated to 22 kN. A couple of times, I used the loops to pull myself up to the anchor when a carabiner’s screw gate was stuck.
Maillons
It’s also a good idea to bring maillons (quick links), as bolts on Kalymnos often use hanger plates, which don’t allow for easy rappelling if you need to bail mid-route.
While you could leave behind a carabiner or quickdraw on the route, a maillon is a much cheaper alternative for descent. During our trip, we used one maillon to clean a roof route. More experienced climbers might have managed without it, but it was a practical solution for us.
Condition of Anchors and Bolts
During our week on Kalymnos, we only encountered one route where two overlapping carabiners in the anchor were noticeably worn. Otherwise, everything was in good condition.
Some routes featured anchors with heavy-duty screw-gate carabiners. While secure, these screws were sometimes very tight. This could be challenging if you reached the anchor with your last bit of energy and attempted to clip directly into it without first loosening the screw.
Proper preparation and patience at the anchor can make a big difference, especially after a demanding route.
Getting Around
The Massouri Skyline area is located just above the village of Massouri. Walking or climbing up the trail to the climbing routes takes about 20 minutes. These routes are very popular and, as a result, tend to be polished and heavily chalked.
To explore other parts of the island, renting a scooter or car is essential. Since neither of us had ever ridden a scooter, we opted for a car. We rented a small Fiat Panda for three days, costing €114. Renting scooters would have cost approximately €90 in total, so the price difference wasn’t very significant.
Routes, Sectors, and Guidebooks
Kalymnos offers an impressive number of climbing routes. According to the 2023 guidebook, there are 4,200 routes listed. However, this figure is already outdated; by fall 2024, new sectors had been developed that aren’t included in the guidebook but can be found on platforms like 27 Crags.
Apps like Vertical-Life are also likely to have up-to-date information, making them a reliable resource for discovering the latest routes and sectors.
Guidebook
The guidebook was available in every shop in Massouri Village for €50. The cover of the latest 2023 edition features a climber holding onto a rock one-handed against the backdrop of a sunset-colored sea. If you plan to purchase the guidebook from Finland or online, it’s a good idea to ensure you’re getting the latest edition to maximize the accuracy of the information.
The book also offers great details about the routes, sectors, approach descriptions, the number of quickdraws needed, route grades, and more. Personally, I prefer using the book over a phone for route research, especially in a place like Kalymnos.
Sectors
Some sectors are easily accessible, while others are a bit harder to reach. The majority of sectors share the characteristic that they are not immediately ”sendable” and require at least a bit of hiking, usually a trail workout up a slope. This is a great way to get your legs and glutes warmed up before climbing.
The guidebook provides excellent information about the sectors, including when they are in the shade. This is crucial information, as climbing in the hot sun is only for the brave. We planned our days accordingly, switching sectors in the afternoon to stay in the shade.
Difficulty Levels
In my opinion, the difficulty levels and grading of the routes in Kalymnos’ own guidebook were quite similar to those in Finland. However, many routes in Kalymnos offer a completely different style of climbing than what you typically find in Finland. It took me a little while to adjust to the rock, but once I started to trust and get used to it, the trip seemed to end too soon.
There were some discrepancies in the grading between 27 Crags, the guidebook, and the grades written directly on the rock itself.
Written 11/2024.
Corrections and Disclaimer
The author reserves the right to correct any errors in the text.
